Wasting Water: DrIp, Drip, Drip

Wasting Water by Uncle George

If you hear a dripping noise at night and have checked your faucets, that dripping may be your toilet tank leaking. It is unusual for new fixtures to begin leaking in less than two years; however, I found both of my toilet tanks leaking. The cure is simple. Replace the flapper in the tank.

The flapper is the part that the chain pulls to allow the water to flow into the bowl.
On a closer look, I noticed that both flappers were warped on the sealing edge permitting leakage. Since we all have the same fixtures, it is probable that others will discover leaks as I did. How do you know if it’s leaking?
One way to detect the leak is hearing it. The sound will keep you awake at night with worry that a flood is eminent: a dry version of water torture.
Another sign is the occasional inrush of water as it opens the water valve to replace the lost water.
A more scientific way is to shut the water valve that supplies the water to the tank. Turn it off for several hours. (Do not flush the toilet or you will have to start over.) If the tank is empty or lower, you are loosing water due to a poorly sealing flapper. What to do?
Hire a plumber or find a friend that is handy. This is a ten minute job. Going to the hardware store will take longer than the fix.
Do it yourself. Go to that hardware store and buy a flapper replacement kit. It’s a good idea to remove one of the current ones and take it to the hardware store to get a match. Almost any one will work. Personally, I’ve always have had good results with Fluidmaster. Ask the hardware guy if you aren’t sure.
Replacement:
Do one toilet at a time. Just in case a situation of need arises. Also, you can use the other unit as a model while working.

Step One: Remove the tank lid carefully and place it in a safe spot away from your work area - not on the toilet seat. If you drop it, you may need to replace the entire toilet. (Been there, done that!) Close the inlet or “shut-off” valve at the tank. Flush the toilet to empty the tank. Remove flapper and chain from the tank. They are often dirty and black to the touch so use a paper towel or cloth to hold them. The chain can be unclipped from the handle arm. Make note of the chain length and operation of the flush handle.

Step two: Go to the hardware store. Buy two kits. You only need the flapper assembly. Most times the floats are OK. It’s your decision otherwise. ACE is my favorite. True Value, Lowes, Home Depot, and maybe Wal-Mart all have the parts.

Step Three: Figure out how to fasten the flapper so it hinges freely. The kits usually give you a few extra parts to accommodate different manufacturers. See the included photos to see what worked for my fixture. Most of us should have the same fixture.

The ring part on the right was not required for my model.

Step Four: Adjust the chain length. OK, this is where your old part can help. Measure the chain length and clip it so that the action is the same. The chain needs to be just long enough to allow the flapper to close. Try the handle to see if it opens and closes freely.
Step Five: Open the shut-off valve. Wait for the tank to refill. Flush several times and watch to make sure nothing is sticking, binding or tangling. Replace the tank lid. DONE!
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Uncle George

Max Myers Electrician: This guy is good!

One of our readers, G.M., recommended Max Myers for his professionalism as an electrician.

We hired Max to add some light fixtures to kitchen area.

Over the counter, he hung three accent lights.

On the Kitchen ceiling, he mounted a fan

and to replace the "builders grade" florescent fixture,

he installed several recessed lights.

He also added switches to accommodate control of the new fixtures.

Wow! things look better than ever.

Great to work with as he offered some good ideas.

Best of all, he was done in one day.

Thank you again, G. M.

Here is his contact information.

Myers Electric LLC

4226 Beulah RoadHurlock, Md 21643

Master Electrician Max Myers

C: 410-924-0380

FAX: 410-943-1748

Cambridge Creek Bridge Closing

One effect of the bridge closing has been an increase in traffic through Deep Harbour. It appears that some "no outlet" signage would be helpful.

Since Beazer has a sales office on site, locking both gates seems to be unlikely during daylight hours. A reasonble solution would be to close the north gate as prospective customers would be more likely to enter from the Cedar St. side.

I urge residents to keep an eye on this. Hopefully, as time passes, most of the local traffic will find it easier to use Cedar St. to enter town. Keep your Board of Directors informed.

Send your commnets to MC900@comcast.net

Cambridge Creek Bridge Closing

The Cambridge Creek Bridge will be closed to automobile traffic Aug. 1 to Oct. 31 to allow for repairs and repainting of the drawbridge.

The drawbridge spans will remain locked in an upright open position for most of the closure period to facilitate work on the underside. Work includes cleaning and repainting structural steel and mechanical components of the movable spans, and repairing the drawbridge and bridge approaches.

Marine traffic will be permitted to pass. There may be some passage limitation due to workmans' rafts.

see the Dorchester Star for more information.
http://www.dorchesterstar.com/

Letters to the Editor: Noise levels within 900 Marshy Cove

The following has been submitted by a resident:

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"Due to the poor construction and lack of attention to details at 900 Marshy Cove, Tenants who are not as fortunate as those living on the top floor experience excessive noise from tenants living above them. i.e., when the man above me gets out of bed in the morning I can hear his bare feet on the floor. When one of the tenants grand children runs the hallway on the 3rd floor I can hear it in my unit on the first floor. All this means is that the sound attenuation in the floor system is not adequate....There are HUD standards as well as Building Code standards that are suppose to be followed or exceeded set standards of decibel levels of sound that are allowable.
Since Comanco is in Beazer's pocket, I wonder if there is another way of checking this standard to get the construction certified or disapproved.....If it is the later then it can be fixed with sound insulation that they can blow into the ceiling spaces to reduce the transmission of noise ...... Maybe a question for HUD....I don't know"

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